There is a bewildering array of glue products on the market, and you may ask why. Well, the truth is in my shop, 95% of all gluing is done with one product, plain old yellow glue. It is an aliphatic resin, but please don't ask me about the chemistry. There are several popular brands on the market and I have found little difference among them. This glue has many endearing qualities: long shelf life, no mixing required, water soluble for easy clean-up, reasonable working time, and amazing adhesion. It does not have good gap-filling properties however, so your joints must be tight and well clamped. There are water-resistant (not water proof) formulations, and slow setting versions to allow time for complicated assemblies. I use this for almost everything, from traditional furniture joints to vacuum bag veneering.
A look in my glue cabinet reveals a few other useful adhesives for wood:
Cyanoacrylate or crazy glue is handy for sticking down a chip, splinter, or small non-structural repair. The gel type works best on wood.
Polyurethane (Gorilla Glue) is something I sometimes use for repairs when it's gap-filling properties are needed. It bonds well, is semi water-resistant, and foams and expands to fill a sizable gap. It's messy to work with and clean up and its foaming can be a problem, but it has it's uses.
Epoxy, like polyurethane, has good gap-filling properties and may be a good choice for a loose fitting joint, in fact it performs best with a loose joint, not tightly clamped. It's expensive, messy, requires careful mixing, and it can be brittle and unaccommodating to wood movement, but it adheres very well to almost anything and is very water resistant. Don't get it on your hands.
Resorcinol-formaldehyde glue is the traditional boat builders old standard. A powder and liquid are mixed to make a very strong and very waterproof adhesive. Long set-up time and a good, tight, well clamped joint are necessary.
Hide glue, before modern chemistry, was the primary adhesive of choice for many types of woodworking: Furniture, lutherie, etc... It is made from rendered collagen from the skins (hides) of animals. It is chemically similar to edible gelatin and is non-toxic if ingested. Hide glue is still used today in specialized applications like musical instruments and replica furniture. I have used it for conservational-grade repairs to antique woodwork. Not easy to use, it requires a "hot-pot" to maintain a certain temperature.
What are some of the adhesives you utilize in your shop? Please share with us in the comment section below. Happy New Year!
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Nicely stated, and I have to agree, but I don't have as many glues in my cabinet. Elmers and Titebond mostly. Titebond 2 sometimes, and Titebond 3 for cutting boards all though it tends to darken the glue line. I have also used the formaldehyde stuff for bent laminations,allthough I don't like the health risk involved. I was under the impression that it dried harder than yellow glue and resulted in less springback? jm
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